Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and visitors equally praising its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a exclusive roster of global cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it enters a global network of more than four hundred metropolises across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "is a testament to its profound food heritage and vibrant food ecosystem," according to a official from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this time-honored city is no surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, bustling, and diverse city – the capital of India's biggest state – is at last in the limelight for what has consistently shaped its heart: an immense devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing conversation from waking up until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and elevated to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, blending Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights local ingredients but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and carts – hidden delights that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a simple joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is precise and demanding. The vendor whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but note that their younger generation are reluctant to master the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will encourage more people globally to learn these tales and visit the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
